BE
me natural
.
W hen it comes to hair color, it
takes artistry and technique to
improve on nature. W e asked t
pros how to achieve the best
results, whether you’re in the
salon or at home.
by KELLY L. PHILLIPS
For every mane of shiny, multi-tonal hair, there are
botched jobs that look flat, dull, or just plain wrong.
Here’s how to ensure your color is transformative.
TONE ON TONE
Take a close look at your skin.
“Choosing a hair color that complements your
skin’s undertone is a critical step,” says Garnier
colorist David Evangelista. Are you warm (think
olive or golden skin) or cool (with rosy or bluish
undertones)? Your optimal hair color lies in that
same category.
SHOP FOR IT
Ignore the pretty face staring at you on
the front of the box. Instead, look at the shade guide
on the back. Warm-skinned women should gravitate
to golds, copper, reds, and mahoganies. Cool-
complected women are best in ashes, burgundies,
and beiges that minimize brassiness. Colors marked
“neutral” work for either skin type. “Stuck between
two shades? Choose the lighter one—it’ll give a more
natural result,” says Marcy Cona, creative director of
color and style for Clairol.
ASK FOR IT
At the salon, show, don’t tell. Bring a
photo of the specific shade you want. Or, hold a
color swatch against your cheek (salons usually
have hundreds). Seek the stylist’s opinion, too—
you’re paying for that expertise! “Colorists are like
doctors who fix hair—they’ll tell you if a color isn’t
right for you. And then they’ll customize the correct
formula,” says colorist Rita Hazan of Manhattan’s
Rita Hazan Salon.
PLACE MATTERS
You’ve selected a shade, so
you’re ready to go, right? Think again. The type of dye
and how it’s applied makes a huge difference.
WHOLE HEAD
Permanent formulas are the best bang
for the buck—the color stays until it grows out.
Demi- and semi-permanent formulas last for only five
to 25 shampoos. Major color changes, however, are
best left to professionals.
“The FDA limits the
amount of peroxide in box
hair dye; it can’t turn a
brunette into a platinum
Marilyn Monroe blonde,”
says Evangelista.
GRAY COVERAGE
The
texture of gray or white hair
is different—these wiry
strands resist color. For hair
that’s more than 50 percent
gray, stick with a permanent formula. Less than that,
a semi- or demi-permanent color will gently tint
any silver for a pretty highlighted effect.
HIGHLIGHTS
Most stylists advise against DIY
highlights, but if you insist, plenty of kits exist. Focus
color at the crown to mimic where the sun hits. As a
rule, thinner highlights look more natural than
chunky. “Apply the formula to a section of hair you
can literally see through,” advises Cona. “If you’ve
never used a highlighting tool before, get comfortable
first by practicing with conditioner.”
“T he further you go
from your original
color, the less
natural it will look.
M ost wom en only
need to subtly shift
their shade.”
SALON OWNER RITA HAZAN
1 5 6
JUNE 2010
BETTER HOMES AND GARDENS
PHOTO: (WOMAN) GETTY IMAGES
